We had called ahead and reserved a ride up to the Red Rock Canyon trailhead a month previously and stopped in to confirm that we would be ready to go in the morning at 9:30 sharp. When the driver heard that we were hiking up to Lone Lake that day she said that we should try to get going right at 9:30. We met up in the morning of August 4, 2009 and began the slow drive up into the mountains. The road is paved but just barely and has pullouts every little while because it is not wide enough for car to meet and pass safely.

Approximately 5 km up the road you come to the Crandel Mountain Campground where we had spent our first night in the Wateron area. Crandel is a nice Campground but it is not very accessible and it is mostly used as an overflow campground when all the downtown camps are full. After the campground the road rises slightly up the valley next to the Blakiston River. Approximately 10 kilometres later we arrive at the Red Rock Canyon parking lot. At this point we bid our Driver/Guide/Waterton Historian goodbye. We looked around and saw some tourists climbing up the Red Rock Canyon Trail and said to each other that we have to come back with our boys and investigate the canyon area. But today our destination is Lone Lake 18 kilometres up the trail and the day is burning away. All the way up the valley the sky has been misting down on us and it causes us a little discomfort to be starting a 70 kilometre trail with rain. The rain ease off and the clouds rise somewhat to give us a better view of the valley. This part of the trail is not the most scenic but it is a nice forest walk and allowed my wife and I to chat about the days to come and make some much needed fast milage and therefore it made us feel better about starting an 18k day at 10:30 am.  The 9km hike up to the Snowshoe camping area only took us 2.5 hours and we laughed as we had our lunch about being so concerning about making camp by nightfall.  for the last hour of our hike we had been passed and repasssed by a trope of Boy Scouts on Mountain Bikes. I pulled out my regular supply of gummy bears from my pack and started consuming some "Bear Meat". I saw a few of the scouts look over at me as I was eats the sweet treats. I asked one of them If he would like any but he politely declined. I asked another one and he said " yeah sure"  then a moment later the first boy said that he might like to have a few. We chatted with them for a few minutes and then they hide their bike and continued up the trail on foot. We took our time getting going as we preferred to have the trail to ourselves, after all, we had come out to these less travelled trails in order to get some nature time and if we wanted to follow the herd we would have gone out to the Crypt Lake Trail.

We arrived at Lone lake camp and were a little surprised at how primative it seemed to be. We got the impression that the back-country campgrounds were not why people came to Waterton National Park, One of the first thing we noticed about Waterton Park was how small it is. By stringing together a few trails we were walking most of the North-West and Southern expanse of the Park. What it lacks in size it by far makes up for in beauty. In this Writer/Photographers opinion the Lineham Ridge and Carthew/Alderson Trails are some of the prettiest in western Canada.

After Lone lake the pain begins. I would recommend that if you are not a strong hiker/backpacker you leave this trail to the hardcore hikers . After leaving the lake you begin climbing the switchbacks and boy do you climb. A few hundred vertical metres later you will summit the shoulder of Festubert  mountain. From this vantage point you get a great view of the valley that you will be travelling down and through in order to get to the backside of Lineham Ridge. For the next 5-6 kilometres the trail is very indescript but it is not a bad still pretty. The trial seems to domininsh a little here and probably shows the lack of use this Tamarrack section of the trail gets. After around five kilometres of bush walking the trail begins to open up and you can see the wall of rock looming over your right shoulder. I remember wondering where the trail was going because it seems like you are walking toward a solid rock wall. But, after a few kilomtres more you can see that you are walking around a big horseshoe shaped trail and sooner or later you will need to start climbing the shale ridge. On the far left side of your vision you can see the top of a mountain and my mind kept telling me that we couldn't be going there but an hour later I realized that we were going to climb the ridge on the far left. It took a lot of fortitude to avoid taking one of the pathes that lead straight up the fallline.

It was obvious that many hikers had become impatient with the trail which was cut at an angle across the fallline and was built to save your legs and your lungs. I was appreciative that my wife Angela was leading at this point and was diligently keeping us on the marked trail. The lineham ridge is world renknown for a very good reason and I have to say I was not dissappointed with it's beauty. I have climbed areas before and I have wondered if it was worth it but anyone who climbs Lineham Ridge cannot say, in good conscience that it was not worth it. I rememeber thinking that I wished that we had more time to linger at the top of the Ridge, but we still had 14 kilometres to go in our day and it was well after noon already, having set up in dark before I didn't want to do it again.  The climb up Lineham Ridge was hard but descending the shale covered slope of Lineham ridge was more difficult for me. My 44 year old knees complained every time I stepped down and locked my knee only to have it slide down the shale and overextend by a few millimetres. The trail traverses down and around the valley overlooking the Rowe lakes area. after a couple of kilometres the slope angle eases and the shale begins to dissappear. At this point we begin to meet others coming up the valley. I remember thinking that although the view from the backside was intimidating it was nothing compared to the front side and I was happy to be walking in this counterclockwise direction. I can't remember much about the trail down from Rowe Lakes but I do remember the crew of young campers. I recall watching them come down the trail from the upper Rowe Lakes and recall thinking that they looked like a group of very loud ants chanting all the way down.

As we got to the Akimina Parkway the skies opened up and the rain began to pour down on us.  We walked along this stretch of road wondering why noone would stop and give us a ride and just when we had lost all hope a van full of older Americans stopped and picked us up on the road. As it turned out we had almost made it to the trail that lead to Akimina Provincial Park in BC. As it turns out we had to backpack a few kilometres into BC because Parks Canada had closed the Rowes Lakes campground in the nineties and the Cameron Lakes campground closed in the seventies. These Campground closings have made it  hard on through hikers to find places to camp and forces hkers to extend their days. Our day from Lone Lake to Akamina Campground was 25 kilometetres with over 1000 metres of vertical. Yikes.

We had a stormy night on the Akimina Pass area and we were happy to wake up and begin our last wet day in Wateron Park. In the morning it was an easy walk down the trail to the Akimina Parkway and then another easy two Kilomtres to the Cameron Lake tourist area. I recall thinking that i wished that we had a better day because I am sure that the Cameron Lake area is breathtaking. The Cathew/Alderson Trail begins to the east of the Tourism Building and quickly starts switchbacking up towards Summut Lake. After Summut lake the trail begins a slow clockwise circle towards Carthew Summit. The view from Cathew summit is, in my opinion, not as good as Lineham ridge  but is still well worth the climb. At the top of the Carthew Ridge you can see east towards Alderson Lakes and south toward the USA/Canada border. The trail around and past Alderson lake is lovely and is a good alpine walk. It provides excellent views and great animal watching. We saw many ground squirrels and marmots walking down this trail. The trail from the Alderson Lake turnoff is really well travelled and is just a nice descent towards the Waterton Community. As we descended the noises and views of the city spurned us on to get down and have a treat and a greasy meal. I loved taking our photos at the falls in the Waterton townsite.

How to get there: The town of Waterton is located five kilometres north of the USA/Canada border. Waterton Lakes National Park is located in the Southwestern corner of Alberta, Canada. It is 270 km south of Calgary and 130 km from Lethbridge. From Calgary take Highway 2 South to Fort Macleod and then head West on Highway 3 to Pincher Creek. Now head South on Highway 6 and you will be in Waterton. From Calgary the drive is approximately 3 Hours.

When to go: Late June until late August is the best time to visit Waterton
Transportation: The closest taxi is in Lethbridge and the only transportation is achieved by contacting Tamarack Outfitters

Accommodations: Bayshore Inn Waterton Lakes

The Bayshore Inn is a 70-room full service resort and convention centre on the shores of Waterton Lake in downtown Waterton. All rooms have their own private balcony overlooking the lake, coffee maker, full bath and satellite TV. Featuring family suites as well as three honeymoon suites with heart-shaped tubs and big bathrooms. Meetings and conventions are held in five meeting rooms, which range in size up to the 200 person capacity Peace Park Ballroom. The smallest is suitable for 6-8 people.

Hot Tub / Jacuzzi / Whirlpool Restaurant On Site Pub / Lounge / Bar On Site Coffee/Tea Maker Private Bathrooms

Address: | Waterton, AB | T0K 2M0

Tel: 403 859-2211

Aspen Village Inn Waterton

Located in the heart of the Waterton townsite, the Aspen Village Inn offers spacious, well-appointed guest rooms ranging from deluxe suites to cottages with full kitchens and fireplaces. Guests appreciate the inn's central location near restaurants, shops and the lake. Amenities include a hot tub, a playground, a BBQ area and in-room coffee makers.

Hot Tub / Jacuzzi / Whirlpool Kitchenettes Coffee/Tea Maker Private Bathrooms

Address: 111 Windflower Ave | Waterton Lakes National Park, AB | TOK 2MO

Tel: 1 403 859-2255

Waterton Lakes Resort

At the heart of the Waterton townsite is The Waterton Lakes Resort. Designed to provide a unique Canadian Rockies lodging experience, it is southern Alberta's year-round, full service and environmentally-friendly destination resort. Guests have complimentary access to the Waterton Health Club and Recreation Centre. These facilities are fully equipped with an indoor pool, steam room, sauna, whirlpool, spa, massage therapy clinic and a fitness area with workout equipment and an exercise floor. Conference facilities available.[ More ]

Fitness Facilities Kitchenettes Air Conditioning Non-Smoking Property Private Bathrooms

Address: 101 Clematis Avenue | Waterton Lakes National Park, AB | T0K 2M0 [

Tel: 403 859-2150

Crandell Mountain Lodge Waterton

Crandell Mountain Lodge is a charming country inn-style lodge located in the centre of Waterton Lakes National Park. This beautiful lodge offers a variety of room types including suites with kitchens, fireplaces and homey country decor. Guests appreciate the large deck with barbecues, as well as the lounging areas. A variety of activities are found in the surrounding area including hiking trails, mountain biking and canoeing.

Kitchenettes Coffee/Tea Maker Private Bathrooms

Address: Box 114 - 102 Mountview Rd. | Waterton Park, AB | T0K 2M0 [ Map ]

Tel: 403 859-2288

Waterton Glacier Suites

The Waterton Glacier Suites is located in downtown Waterton and features 26 suites. Each guest room is equipped with a Jacuzzi, fireplace, patio/balcony, satellite TV, refrigerator, microwave and more. Guests enjoy the spectacular mountain views and easy access to the area's attractions and activities. [ More ]

Hot Tub / Jacuzzi / Whirlpool Restaurant On Site Coffee/Tea Maker Air Conditioning Private Bathrooms

Address: 107 Windflower Avenue | Waterton, AB | T0K 2M0

Tel: 403 859-2004

Bear Mountain Motel

Formerly known as the El Cortez Motel, Bear Mountain Motel is a 1960s style lodging that offers everything from single rooms to three-room units with kitchenettes. Open from the middle of May until early October, the motel is located close to shops, restaurants and the marina.

Address: 208 Mountainview Road | Waterton Lakes Park, AB | T0K 2M0

Tel: 1 403 859-2366

Prince of Wales Hotel Waterton

The 86-room hotel, named after the popular Prince Edward, was opened in 1927. Its steep, sloping gabled roof is an area landmark and attracts many who consider a stay at The Prince of Wales an annual tradition. Its romantic appeal has made it a favorite for honeymooners for more than half a century.

Restaurant On Site Pub / Lounge / Bar On Site

Address: Prince of Wales Hotel | Waterton, AB | T0K 2M0 [ Map ]

Tel: 1 403 859-2231

Camping: Parks Canada operates four campgrounds in Waterton Lakes National Park.campers at Townsite campground

Townsite Campground: mid-April to mid-October.

All campsites in Townsite Campground are on the Parks Canada Reservation system. Located at the south end of the Waterton townsite, this campground offers 238 sites (95 of which are fully serviced), hot showers, flush toilets, food storage and kitchen shelters. There are no individual firepits. This open, mowed lawn campground, exposed to winds from Upper Waterton Lake, is an excellent place for RV's or for those who wish to be within walking distance of town amenities. Reservations are advisable if you plan to travel on a long weekend, or if you require a serviced site.

For more information: contact waterton.info@pc.gc.ca

or, call 403-859-2224.

Contact me for more information on this Backpack drconlon@gmail.com

On August 3rd 2009 we roll down the hill towards the lake by which the town of Waterton, Alberta is located. The clouds seem to be bunching up and forming a medium overcast sky. We first check into the Parks Canada office and sign our backcountry camping permits and tell the ranger where we are going and how long we are planning to be in the backcountry.  They seem to be a little confused with the trails that we are stringing together. They inquire about where we are going after departing the Rowe Lakes Trail. It seems that very few people do the trails we are planning because you need to walk the gravel road for 5 kilometres. We then depart the Parks Canada Office and navigate down to the Tamarrak Outfitters Store in downtown Waterton one block away from the Marina where hikers can catch the water ferry to the popular Crypt Lake Trail.