1. •Experienced backpackers - get at least a few long weekends in before you try this one
   

•You should be fit - be prepared to walk with a heavy pack for 10 or 12 days

•You should self-sufficient - the nearest help could be a week's walk away so you have to be able to meet all challenges on your own

How Long Will it Take

You should allow 10 to 12 days if you want time to enjoy the area and allow for a rest day. That assumes a daily average of approximately 20 kilometres a day. This has proved to be a good average on backpacking trails with full gear. Very experienced ultra-light backpackers may be able do this trail in 5-9 days. There is no trailfinding involved in this hike.

When to Go

Spring comes late in the Canadian Rockies. You can try this trail from early July to early September. The best chance of warm dry weather is probably late July and August. Be prepared for frost, snow and rain at any time. Wildflowers typically bloom at the end of July and the beginning of August. Precipitation is typically lower in September but chances of frost increase. River crossings will be more challenging earlier in the season.

The Trail

The trail starts at the end of Celestine Lake road. This road starts at the Snaring River front country campground, just off the Trans Canada highway east of the town of Jasper. This narrow winding gravel road is one way and traffic is restricted to in and out times. The times allotted to driving in and driving out are posted on a sign at the beginning of the road. The trail ends at the Berg Lake trailhead, just off the Trans Canada highway at Mount Robson.

We left one vehicle at the Berg Lake trailhead and drove a second vehicle to the Celestine Lake Trailhead. If you need to arrange for transportation, you should contact [insert website for Jasper services].

Planning Your Trip

Step 1 - Get Maps and Information

Maps or a guide book are necessary to help you plan your distance each day and select campsites. You must camp in designated sites, no random camping is allowed in this area. We used the Canadian Rockies Trail Guide, by Patton and Robinson. This book can be purchased on line at Chapters.ca. Its got a good description of the number of km between campsites and landmarks but the map isn't great. We brought the five topographical maps that cover this area to supplement the guide book. We drew the back country campsites on the maps so that we could use a GPS to determine how far we were from campsites.

Step 2 - Pick Your Dates and Make Parks Canada Arrangements

You should set up an itinerary of how far you plan to go each day and where you plan to camp. You can always change your campsites within Jasper National Park but if you plan to stay in Mount Robson Provincial Park, you must book your spot in advance. In contrast with the Jasper National Park portion of the trail, this area is heavily used and campsites must be reserved. A sample itinerary follows, based on our itinerary.

Day 1
Arrive in the town of Jasper and check in at Parks Canada Information Centre. Stay at Snaring River Campground.

Day 2
Drive from Snaring River Campground to the Celestine Lake trailhead and hike to Shalebanks campsite. Distance - 17 km.

Day 3
Hike to Snake Indian Falls for lunch and extended photo session. Then on to Horseshoe Meadows Campsite. Distance 17 km.

Day 4
Hike to Welbourne Campsite. Distance 15 km.

Day 5
Hike to Blue Creek Campsite. Distance 12 km.

Day 6
Hike to Three Slide Campsite. Distance 15 km.

Day 7
25 km to Twintree

Day 8
19 km to Chown Creek

Day 9
25 km to Chown to Adolphous

Day 10
26 km to Adolphous to Robson Trail Head

Considerations in Planning Your Itinerary

For the first week or so of the hike, the trail follows the Snake Indian River fairly closely. There are not a lot of steep ascends or descends so the going is pretty smooth. The trail is typically well defined and easy to follow, which also makes the travel easy. Longer miles are possible than on other trails where you might have to climb and descend a lot. Keep in mind too that you will be heavily loaded at the beginning of the trip so you will likely tire more quickly. We found the first day particularly challenging as the trail gained some significant elevation here and our packs were heavy.

You may wish to plan some time for side trips, such as a trip to Welbourne Falls on Day 4. On Day 5, you might stop in at the Blue Creek Warden cabin to see if the warden is in. We have found Parks Canada wardens to be friendly and helpful, with good information about trail conditions ahead.

About the Campsites

Generally, the campsites on the Jasper National Park section of the trail include an area where tents can be set up, fire pits, a primitive toilet, a place to hang food and firewood. There is also usually a good source of water nearby. We advise treating all water with a filter or chemical treatment to purify it.

Following is a description of each campsite on the trail, based on our 2002 trip:

Daily Descriptions
This section guides you through each day on the trail. The length of each day and the number of days to complete the trail are based on what I would do if I was to hike the trail again. I have purposely followed long days with shorter rest days. The day that you visit Snake Indian Pass is a shorter mileage day to allow you ample time to explore and enjoy this special place.

DAY 1: CELESTINE LAKE ROAD TRAILHEAD TO SHALEBANKS

Distance: 18 kilometers
Time on trail: 6 hours

Day 1 is fairly demanding with a lot of elevation gain and about six hours time on the trail. You should start the day early because you may be delayed in getting to the trailhead by the timing on Celestine Lake Road (see the Trailheads - the Beginning section for details).

There is a historical point of interest on the way to the trailhead that you may wish to investigate. The homestead of the Moberly family is located along Celestine Lake Road and there is a plaque commemorating the spot. The Moberlies lived in this area approximately 100 years ago. Many Metis were used as guides for scientific and exploration surveys through the rockies and Metis guides were instrumental in keeping relations with the Native populations in Alberta and were known as the best guides.

There is a parking lot and trail kiosk at the end of Celestine Lake Road. You should check the trail kiosk for any information relevant to your hike. The trail begins on an old road that immediately drops down to the Snake Indian River. This road used to be open to cars but when the bridge began to deteriorate, Parks Canada decided not to repair it. The old road is now open to foot, horse and bicycle traffic only.

The Snake Indian River is very full and turbulent here, rushing to join the Athabasca River not far from the bridge. This river will be your companion for the next seven days. Though not always in view, the Snake Indian River will be near you most of your trip over the next week. You will see the river dwindle to a small creek as you pass tributaries that have added to its volume. Eventually, you will climb the pass where this magnificent river starts, hopping easily over the shallow head waters.

Across the river, you begin to climb. This is the theme for the most of the day so if the climb seems tough, pace yourself. The first hour and a half is a pretty walk through stands of poplar and on sunny days the trees seem to sparkle as the wind blows through them. There are occasional views across the valley to wooded hills on the far side. We startled a mule deer about 40 minutes into our climb here so keep your head up to spot wildlife. This area is also frequented by bears and their scat is often found on the trail. It is a good idea to make lots of noise as you hike to avoid surprising a bear. Some hikers carry bells but we prefer to talk loudly or sing.

After about five kilometers of hiking, you come to an opening in the trees. This field used to be a parking lot when the road was still open to cars. Here the official start of the NBT is marked by two green Parks Canada signs. One tells you that your first campsite, Shalebanks, is 12 kilometers further. The other sign tells you that Mount Robson (which you will walk past in 10 days time) is 180 kilometers away. These Parks Canada signs can be confusing because sometimes they are inconsistent. The sign at one campsite will tell you it is a certain distance to the next campsite. When you arrive at the next campsite, the sign there will show a different distance back to the campsite you came from. Also, it is not clear whether it is the boundary with Mount Robson Park that is 180 kilometers away or the trail head at the other end. In fact, there is disagreement among various sources as to how long the NBT really is. Finally, be aware that the signs often show distances to both hiker camps and horse camps. To determine which is which, check the icons on the sign. A tent shape followed by a hiker shape indicates a hiker camp while a tent shape followed by the shape of a person on horseback indicates a horse camp.

The trail to Celestine Lake starts on the right side of the clearing. We visited Celestine Lake on another trip and found it to be a charming destination but because it is three kilometers off the NBT, it adds too much distance to be considered a regular stop. However, if you are experiencing bad weather or need to cut the day short on Day 1, I would hike up to Celestine Lake. The campground has a shelter with picnic tables and a big iron cookstove in it so you can dry your gear and get warm. The lake itself is a little green mirror reflecting tree-covered hills that surround it. There is a small dock to sit on and watch the loons which sing you eerie lullabies.

After the official trail head, the trail goes up and down over rolling hills and there are very few views. It is mainly up hill for the first six or seven kilometers and then mainly down hill for about two kilometers until you arrive at Shalebanks Campsite. This section can seem long if the day is very hot or wet and packs are heavy. You will probably encounter a few mosquitoes in this area.

Although you are no longer on former road, the trail remains wide and well traveled. This is due to the popularity of Snake Indian Falls which you will encounter on Day 2. These spectacular falls are a common cycling destination as the trip to the falls and back can be cycled in one day. The trail is open to mountain bikes up to Willow Creek campsite. After that, only

foot traffic and horses are permitted to use the trail.

Eventually, the trail turns down hill towards Shalebanks Campsite. Look for a green Parks Canada sign marking the campground on the left side of the trail at the bottom of a hill.

Shalebanks Campground

Follow a short trail through trees to an opening with a metal fire pit in the middle. The fire pit has a grate that swings over the top which is useful for heating pots of water. Around the fire pit are large pieces of cut logs turned up on end to make seats. This is a great spot to cook and eat your meals.

Beyond the fire pit is a meadow with nice flat spots for setting up tents. The meadow is surrounded by tall trees with fairly dense underbrush. At the far end of the meadow, a narrow trail leads to a creek where drinking water can be obtained. To be absolutely safe, you should treat all water out here before you drink it.

As you pass the fire area there is a spot to hang your food on the left. This consists of a small log nailed high up between two trees so you'll need a rope here. To use this bear pole, you throw one end of your rope over the log. Tie your food bag to one end of the rope and hoist is up to dangle high off the ground. Tie the other end of the rope to one of the trees. Ensure that you always hang all of your food.

As we walked to this campground on our Day 1, we met two cyclists who had spent two nights at this Shalebanks Campground. They said they had seen four black bears on the other side of the Snake Indian River not far from here.

The path to the privy also takes off from this spot. The privy here, as at most campsites in the JNP portion of the NBT, is a log nailed between two trees with a pit below

You fall asleep to the sound of the wind in the poplars and the little brook not far from your tent. If you are lucky enough to have clear skies in the morning, eat your breakfast facing west. As the sun rises, it lights up the trees on the hill across the valley - first at the top of the hill and then slowly inching down to bathe the entire hillside in golden sunlight.

DAY 2: SHALEBANKS TO HORSESHOE

Distance: 22 kilometers
Time on trail: 7 - 8 hours (depending on how long you linger at Snake Indian Falls)

As you leave camp, you cross the little brook that has provided drinking water. There is a bridge just down the creek from the trail (you don't have to cross the very wide horse ford that crosses the main trail). Just a little ways down the path, you are treated to a close up view of the Snake Indian River. When we saw it, the water was the beautiful blue-green colour of glacial run-off. You then start to climb up away from the river. Over the next couple of hours, you will drop down to the river and then climb away from it again, eventually climbing up to Seldom Inn campground after 8 kilometers of hiking.

Seldom Inn has a clearing for tents, a metal fire pit with benches for sitting. The benches are constructed of a plank set on top of two log pieces. Water is from a little creek beyond the campground. When we passed in August, there was very little water in this creek.

After Seldom Inn, the trail stays in the trees with some ups and downs. After about ½ hour walking, you get to Snake Indian Falls. A green Parks Canada sign marks the side path that heads to the falls. These much-photographed falls are one of the highlights of the NBT. The side path takes you about 300 meters off the main trail and is well marked and easy to follow.

There is no way I can put in words how spectacular these falls are. Even the photos I have seen do not do them justice. The sheer force of the water pounding the earth, carving out stone, piling huge logs like matchsticks is something that must be seen to be truly appreciated. This is a great place to stop for lunch. We had a sunny day and sat near the top of the falls on a flat rocky area near the river. We spent over an hour taking pictures, eating and relaxing here.

After leaving the falls, the trail becomes much narrower and more enclosed. We found the insects got a little more intense here and we passed a few bogs that seemed to be breeding grounds. This is one of the few spots on the NBT where sources of water are far between and you may wish to carry enough water to last for a couple hours of hiking here.

Less than ½ an hour before you reach Horseshoe Meadows campground, the trees open up and you enter extensive meadows. The campground is located at the far end of the meadows under big spruce trees.

Horseshoe Meadows Campground

The Horseshoe Meadows campground is right beside the trail and is marked by the now familiar green Parks Canada sign. There is a beautiful view over the Snake Indian River which you can enjoy as you sit beside the fire. The campground is located on a little plateau above a steep bank that leads down to the river about 100 meters away. There are large coniferous trees spaced widely apart with nice flat spots underneath for setting up tents. These trees are great protection against rain and frost. Drinking water is from the Snake Indian River. Again, you should treat all the water you collect on the NBT before you drink it.

There are two metal fire pits here with makeshift benches around them. As at Seldom Inn, the benches are made of planks laid across the tops of upturned pieces of logs. The trail to the privy (same set up as at Shalebanks) is located on your left when you face the river. The bear pole is not far from one of the fire pits in the central camping area. Be sure to set up your tent a good distance away from the bear pole (experts recommend a distance of at least 100 meters between the spot where you sleep and the spot you hang your food).

This was one of my favourite campgrounds on the NBT. We sat by the fire pit on the up-turned logs and watched the river slide by as the afternoon faded to evening. We saw an osprey hover above the river. It appeared to be scanning the river for fish. It would fly up the river a ways, then hover over it and scan again. Across the river, in the distance is a tree-covered hill which, when we were there in early August, had a dusting of snow on the top. Very peaceful.

DAY 3: HORSESHOE MEADOWS TO WELBOURNE

Distance: 18 kilometers
Time on trail: 6 hours

Day 3 starts fairly level with a few gentles rolls as you make your way through more meadows. If it has been raining and the underbrush is wet, you may wish to put on gaiters or rain pants to keep your legs dry. This morning you pass through meadows filled with willows and long grasses that will drip all over you as you pass. If you didn't bring rain pants or gaiters, try to talk one of your hiking partners into leading the way so that he or she will shake all the water off the brush before you pass.

A junction with a trail that goes to Rock Lake is passed shortly before you reach Willow Creek campground. This remote lake can be reached by car and is an alternate starting point for the NBT. The biggest problem with starting at Rock Lake is that you miss Snake Indian Falls. Arranging transportation is another potential problem with this remote trailhead.

After about 4 kilometers on the trail, you come to Willow Creek campground. You pass through the horse campground first. Then cross the creek to the hiker campground.

I was leading the way when we hiked through this area. Always alert for bears up ahead, I stopped when I glimpsed a large animal with brown fur in the bushes ahead. The rest of my group stopped and spotted the animal too. It took a moment to realize that it was a horse and nothing to be concerned about. The horse however, was quite nervous and ran back and forth through the camping area while two outfitters, who had four horses there, tried to calm down the poor fellow. I think it was the sight of my bright yellow raingear that startled him so much.

The Willow Creek hiker campground has two fire pits, a bear pole and a privy. It is right beside the creek which is very pretty and soothing as it slides by on its way to the Snake Indian River. From here it is 14 kilometers to Welbourne Campground. If you are running low on water, stock up here as there are few good sources for the next couple of hours.

After Willow Creek, the trail stays fairly level, following the bottom of the wide river valley. You are not close to the river here, though. The trail wanders through stands of forest and willow meadows for the next hour or so. It is in these willow meadows that you start to see views west to some beautiful mountains. These mountains will get closer and closer as the days go by.

We stopped for lunch in one of these meadows and sat under a large coniferous tree. We noticed that these trees soak up the rain so well that the ground stays dry underneath them. We had been plagued with showers all morning but the sun came out in time for our lunch break. It was here that we met two men from Texas. They were on their way back from the Upper Blue Creek Valley and had seen a moose and a grizzly bear. They moved and spoke with the quiet relaxed demeanor that comes from being in the wilderness for many days.

After another couple of hours (about 8 kilometers west of Willow Creek) you come to a junction with the Rock Creek trail and a bridged crossing of Rock Creek (another spot to get water which is fairly plentiful from here to Welbourne). You are now only six kilometers from Welbourne campground.

After another 2 kilometers, you reach the junction with a trail that leads up to the Wilmore Wilderness Area. Next you cross Deer Creek which you will know because the bridge has the words "Deer Creek" carved into it. After Deer Creek, there is a bit of a climb and then you are treated to a view of the Snake Indian River. The trail then rolls through more willow meadows and a beautiful grassy meadow. You pass a little green lake on the right side of the trail then the turnoff to Welbourne Falls. When my group went through here, we were too tired to check out the falls. I leave it for you to explore. Next you pass through a horse gate and then the trail follows close to the river until you get to the horse camp. The hiker camp is about 300 meters past the horse camp.

Welbourne Campground

Welbourne campground is marked, of course, by a green Parks Canada sign. The camping area is a clearing beside the trail surrounded by large, well-spaced coniferous trees. The Snake Indian River runs right by the camping area and is your source of drinking water. There are two metal fires boxes, one on each side of the clearing. A bear pole is on the west side of the clearing (on your right when you face the river). Tents can be set up on flat spots under large coniferous trees near the river. The path to the privy starts near the bear pole. It is a bit of a hike up the river to the by now familiar log nailed between two trees with a pit underneath to catch waste.

When we were here, there was a lot of wood cut and stacked in a pile on one side of the clearing. Because the wood was cut with a chainsaw, it was probably the work of horse outfitters. They are the only ones who could bring a chainsaw to this remote campground except Park Wardens. And Park wardens do not use chainsaws. They keep the trails clear using handsaws.

When you stand on the bank of the river and look upstream, you see a beautiful mountain with a double peak. It looks like a baby bird's beak open straight up to the sky, waiting for food to be dropped in. This mountain is called "The Rajah". This is a nice place to sit and watch the sun sparkle off the water. But get to sleep early, tomorrow is a long day.

DAY 4: WELBOURNE TO THREE SLIDES

Distance: 28 kilometers
Time on trail: 9 hours

When we hiked the NBT, we did this stretch in two days, stopping overnight at Blue Creek. I recommend passing this campground and making this one of your long days instead. You can then make your trip over Snake Indian Pass on a short day and enjoy this highlight area without having to rush through as we did. Of course, if you want to take more than 10 days, you can stay at Blue Creek and still take your time over the pass.

You start the day climbing up away from the river and slowly climb for most of the first two kilometers. The bugs begin to thicken here as swarms of mosquitoes start to follow each hiker. Here is where you will be glad you brought plenty of bug repellant. The trail rolls on with a few ups and downs before making a big climb to a view of the river.

Next comes Nellie Lake which is really beautiful with the Rajah, now quite close, towering behind. The path follows close to the edge of the water over an old rock slide. The large rocks and beautiful views make this a great lunch stop on a sunny day. A nice breeze off the lake not only cools you on a hot day but whisks away the pesky bugs.

All too soon, its back in the closed forest and the swarms gather once more. This is the day we first donned mosquito nets in an attempt to keep from being bit. This is the day I also came to appreciate a product called "After Bite" which soothes the skin after mosquitoes have done their nasty work. Walking away from the lake, you come to part of the trail that runs totally straight through the forest. I nicknamed this stretch of trail "pine tree alley". Later, we learned that a telegraph line was once planned to go through this area but of course, that plan has long since been abandoned.

The path continues through trees without pleasant views to inspire you. You walk along a raised bank climbing slowly. You are almost at the Blue Creek campground when you arrive at a gate with a sign that identifies the Blue Creek Warden Station. This station is the central post for wardens that patrol the area. If the warden is around, stop and say hello. These people are always happy to stop and chat and they may have valuable information for you about the conditions of the trail ahead.

When we went through here, the warden was in and stopped to chat with us. He had horses at the coral across the field from his cabins. He told us about how one of his duties was to ride the trail clearing fallen trees with a hand saw. He was a great source of information about trail conditions ahead. We didn't see another warden until we got to Adolphous Campsite on our last night.

Shortly after passing the Blue Creek Warden Station, you come to the turn off for the Blue Creek campground. The hiker camp is reached by crossing a small creek beyond the horse camp and walking through a wet, marshy willow area. This small creek is your best source of drinking water while at the campground. The camp itself is in an undulating field surrounded on two sides by marshes which spawn swarms of bloodthirsty mosquitoes. When we were here, this area seemed to be mosquito headquarters.

There is a fire pit on one side near a bear pole. There is not a lot of good wood here. It appears that this area had been recently flooded by beavers which built a damn and backed up a creek near here. I poked around the swampy area, but there was no sign of the furry culprits. The bear pole here has metal cables to hang your food so no rope is required. The path to the privy takes off from the other side of the clearing. At this camp, the privy is a seat with a lid which, after sitting on a log for the last four days, feels like a throne. The best thing about this camp is that there is a great view of Mount Simla which is very close here.

Less than 1 km past the Blue Creek campground, you come to Blue Creek itself. One look at this gorgeous stream sliding past and you understand the reason for its name - the water is very BLUE. The creek is crossed over a suspension bridge which is an engineering marvel. When we were here, we wanted to stop and explore around this beautiful stream but after a few hasty snapshots, the bugs had us scrambling back along the trail. Shortly after the creek, you come to a junction with a trail that leads up the Blue Creek valley and to the Wilmore Wilderness Area. From here you are 14 kilometers and less than 5 hours to Three Slides, your destination for the night.

By now, you are probably wondering whether the mosquitoes will ever leave you alone and allow you to relax your anti-bug tactics. The answer, you will be relieved to hear, is yes. When you climb to Oatmeal campground, the number of mosquitoes declines significantly due to colder night temperatures. In the Snake Indian Pass, there are a lot fewer mosquitoes and the valley you enter after the Pass, the Smoky River valley, is more arid than the Snake Indian River valley making it less hospitable to mosquitoes.

About half an hour after the junction, you come to a small lake on the left side of the trail. After another hour or so, the trail is beside the river again. The river widens here and you have beautiful views across the narrow valley to jagged mountains. Start to look for the three slides that provide the name for your next campground. We found one area where rocks had obviously slid across the trail but we didn't see three. Maybe they are grown over by now.

You get the occasional view of the river which has dwindled to more of a creek by now. You pass the Three Slides Warden Cabin about three kilometers before the campground. There are some mountain views after and some ups and downs.

The Three Slides campground is about 300 meters off the main trail and marked by, you guessed it, a green Parks Canada sign. Water is from a creek that crosses the main trail a short way past the turn-off to the campground so you might want to get water here before you turn down to the campground.

The campsite is on a hill that slopes down to a shallow lake that dries up late in the summer. I have seen pictures of this area where the large shallow lake comes up to the campground. This seems to be the flood plain for the river. When we were here, this lake was dried up except for a creek that trickled through it. The lake bed was mud. Although this sounds unpleasant, the views across this flat area to Upright Mountain provided our first views of a glacier and the beauty of this sight more than made up for the muddy lake bed. And a good stiff breeze comes across this spot that helps drive away some of the bugs making the mud flats a welcome feature. From this campsite, you can also see Snake Indian Mountain which is on the other side of the main trail. There appears to be a cave part way up the face of the mountain.

There are not a lot of good flat spots here to set up tents. You may end up sleeping on a root or on a slope. Just make sure your feet are lower than your head. There is a metal fire pit down near the water/mud flats. The path to the privy (once again a log nailed between two trees with pit below) starts under the bear pole, not far from the fire pit. There is ample wood for burning here.

One member of our group spent an uncomfortable night tossing and turning on a root and finally gave up trying to sleep around 5 am. He stirred up the fire to make some coffee and watched an unforgettable sunrise reflecting reds and pinks on the glacier on Upright Mountain. He said that a flock of Canada geese flew by, close overhead, on their way to a large body of water across the mud flats. He forgot about the lousy sleep and appreciated the opportunity to witness such majesty.

DAY 5: THREE SLIDES TO OATMEAL

Distance: 13 kilometers
Time on trail: 5 hours

After the long day yesterday, you will appreciate a shorter hike today. So go ahead and sleep in a little. This day's hike brings you higher up as you start to make an approach to Snake Indian Pass. You are closer to the river today which is now a cheerful little mountain brook.

The walk this morning is mostly through forest with small ups and downs. The path is rocky and rooty for the first couple of hours but beautiful views south over the Snake Indian River keep your spirits up. After about an hour of walking, you come to a creek with no bridge. It is very wide and shallow here from horses walking through it but it is too deep to walk through without getting water in your boots. There is an island just downstream which you can jump onto. From there you can jump to the far bank. We took our packs off and passed them across to the island and then to the far bank.

After about two hours of walking, the trail moves closer to the little Snake Indian River. The trail is flatter here. Around this point, you start to see a new mountain to the West. This is Calumet and your camp for the night is in the shadow of this beauty.

Oatmeal Campground

Oatmeal campground is set in a clearing by the river just off the path. There are lovely huge coniferous trees near the river to set up tents under. The ground is flat and soft with needles that have fallen from the trees. There are two fire pits in the clearing, closer to the trail. The privy is across the trail from one fire pit and through the trees. Go past an old decommissioned outhouse, this one is another log nailed between two trees. Drinking water is from the river.

When we were at this campground, the clearing was filled with a terrific variety of wildflowers - yellow, white, purple and pink. From the campground, you can see three different mountains. The closest is Calumet which has a stony face with cracks like wrinkles filled with snow. Snake Indian Mountain is to the north. You can't see the glaciers on Snake Indian Mountain from anywhere on the trail - just another stony face like the one visible from Three Slides. To the southwest is a snow covered mountain which is (possibly) the Treadmill Range. This is the range that you saw from Three Slides just to the right of Upright Mountain. The mountain views, the wildflowers and the Snake Indian River, blue gray with glacial silt, made this one of my favourite campgrounds on this trip.

This camp is higher up than previous ones and you should expect frost here. The good news is that you have left the worst of the mosquitoes behind. While there are mosquitoes on the other side of the pass, they are not as numerous. We had a short spurt of hail during supper here. There is good shelter from rain and hail under the trees and once again, firewood is plentiful. You are now only eight kilometers from Snake Indian Pass and 14 kilometers from your next campground so tomorrow is another gentle day. You fall asleep to the sounds of the Snake Indian River for the last time. Tomorrow you say farewell to this river and pass out of the Snake Indian River valley.

Over my early morning coffee at Oatmeal campground, I looked for frost on the ground and was surprised to find none. It certainly seemed cold enough. As I stared at a bright yellow buttercup, the colour faded slightly and became whiter. I was puzzled. I watched a purple flower that was very bright in the first slanted rays of the morning sun. It too became slowly glazed in white. It took me a minute (I was still on that first cup of coffee) to realize that frost was forming on the meadow as I sat there.

DAY 6: OATMEAL TO BYNG

Distance: 14 kilometers
Time on trail: 5 hours (or more depending on how long you spend in Snake Indian Pass)

From Oatmeal campground, you climb steadily but slowly to sub-alpine meadows where the trail levels off. The trees start to open up a bit as you enter the long sub-alpine meadows leading up to the pass. You are still a fair walk from the top, which is marked by a ubiquitous Parks Canada sign, when you cross a very small Snake Indian River, here an easy hop. It is about ankle deep and very clear.

From here, the trail slowly climbs high above the creek. Soon you are enjoying clear views down to the burbling brook that is the genesis of the Snake Indian River and across the valley to clear meadows and small stands of stunted conifers. The trail traverses the side of a gentle hill which is mostly open meadow filled with purple and yellow flowers.

I was surprised at how wet the ground was up there. The soil was mainly clay which really held the water. When we were here in August, this area was blissfully free of mosquitoes. The frost and the breeze must have done them in.

After about 2.5 hours of hiking, you arrive at the top of the pass which is 2,027 meters above sea level. The Snake Indian is a tiny creek far below which starts near a small pond at the top of the pass. You have now followed this river from that first bridge where it was a rushing torrent hurrying to join the Athabasca River, to its tiny beginnings.

If I was to hike this trail again, I would spend some time in the meadows before the high point, just sitting and watching for animals or watching the breeze blow through the flowers. I would like to go down to the brook and check it out a little more closely or poke around the pond near the top of the pass.

The area after the pass is also quite beautiful. Before the pass, you were walking on the right side of the valley with the creek to your left at the bottom of the hill. After the pass, you come out on the left side of the valley with a creek far below on your right. The mountain across the valley on your right is Monte Cristo and a knife edged ridge of it follows the valley to the north. A tiny creek that started up on Monte Cristo forms a lovely white waterfall across the valley. This creek becomes Twintree River and you will follow it to Twintree Lake which you will sleep beside tomorrow night. This area seems so rugged and wild. It is amazing to sit here watching the waterfall and realize you are days away from anywhere civilized. Here it is easy to forget that there is a world of people out there with office buildings and cars and jobs and schedules.

After this point, you start dropping down and the rest of the day is an easy cruise down hill. The plant life is subtly different on this side of the pass. The forest seems more open. After dropping down a couple of switchbacks, you come to Byng Campground, your stop for the day.

Byng Campground

The trail is good into Byng Campground which is situated near a winding creek. The creek slowly lazes by under tall trees. There is a fire box here with log and plank benches for sitting. The path to the privy starts not far from the fire pit and winds up hill away from the creek. This campground is small with large coniferous trees providing some shelter. There are good flat spots for tents not far from the fire pit. There is a warden cabin not far from here across the creek.

We didn't stay at this campground. We stopped here for a quick lunch on our way from Oatmeal to Twintree. It was a very long day and we regretted later that we had hurried through some of the wildest, most ruggedly beautiful spots on the whole trip.

DAY 7: BYNG TO TWINTREE

Distance: 11 kilometers
Time on trail: 4 hours

This will be an easier day, mainly dropping down to Twintree Lake. If you have been cold the last two nights, you can look forward to sleeping at a lower elevation tonight and hopefully being warmer.

Cross the creek on a bridge that can be very slippery when its rainy or when the creek is high and slopping over the bridge. Pass an avalanche chute where snow comes down the mountain in winter. When we passed, there were trees at the bottom of the chute that had come down in winter. They were piled haphazardly, like matchsticks, a testament to the power of nature's forces. Cross an old rockslide and start to climb. Continue hiking through closed forest for a few of hours.

The flora here is different than before the pass. The trees are bigger and the forest seems a little more open. There are fewer mosquitoes but flies can be a problem.

After a few hours, you catch a glimpse of shimmery blue green water below. Twintree Lake is a long narrow lake and the campground is at the far end. The trail stays fairly close to the shore as you make your way to the far end. It can be a little mucky in spots, especially if there has been wet weather. You pass a warden cabin along the lake which has a thermometer on the outside which will tell you the temperature. The lake is longer than it looks and it will take at least an hour to walk to the campsites at the far end.

When you get to the end of the lake, start looking for a junction that leads to the campsites. You will think you should be at the junction long before you get there. The actual trail to the campsite leads around a boggy area on the shore and adds an extra kilometer to your hike. When its not too wet, most people cut across the boggy area and go straight to the campsites. You will see the rough trail in the long grass along the shore of the lake. You will have to jump across a little creek that comes out of the lake here. If this area is too wet, follow the trail around to Twintree Creek and up the creek towards the lake.

There are two camping spots here, each with a fire pit. They are not on the lake proper which has marshy shores. Rather they are on the creek. The spot closer to the lake is the preferred camping site as it has a view of the lake. There are also views of Twintree Mountain from the campsite which will likely have some snow on it. There was not as much firewood around this site as at the others when we were here.

When we arrived here, it was late in the day and we were shocked to find that two people occupied the preferred spot. These were the first people we had seen since we spoke to the Park Warden at Blue Creek and we were so surprised to find people in such a remote area. We ended up at the second campsite, further down the creek. This site has a hitching post for horses.

The trail to the privy starts at this second site. The privy here is an open "throne" as at Blue Creek. It is a fiberglass seat, complete with lid, set on top of a pit. This campsite is in the trees with a few good flat spots for tents. Water is from Twintree Creek which is more of a river than a creek. You will be relieved to know that the crossing of this creek, which you will do the next day, is bridged. Get some rest. Tomorrow is a big day.

DAY 8: TWINTREE TO CHOWN

Distance: 19 kilometers
Time on trail: 6.5 hours

Today, you begin with a crossing of Twintree Creek. When we were here in 2002, the bridge had been washed out and was under repair. A work crew staying at a make shift camp by the creek was putting the finishing touches on a new bridge. The work crew was very friendly and invited us to stay for coffee. They were pleased with their work on the bridge and pointed out how they had incorporated trees with double tops ("twintrees") in the design of the bridge. According to local lore, the lake was not named for these trees but rather for two little trees that inhabited an island in the lake. When we were there, there was only one little old twisted up tree on the island. I guess the name endured longer than the trees that inspired it.

Immediately after you cross the bridge, start to climb. This is probably the most difficult climb of the trip as you head over a shoulder of Twintree Mountain. The trail levels off a bit and then climbs again before reaching the top. Once over the shoulder, the trail drops rapidly down switchbacks into the Smoky River valley. You get occasional views of the Smoky far below but you are mostly in the trees. Once you get to the valley bottom, you walk through closed forest toward the river. Now the trail flattens out and you walk through a marshy area dotted with little bridges. When we were there, it was quite dry and there was no problem passing through this area. However, the dried mud and swamp loving flora in the area indicated that in times of wet weather or spring run-off, this area would probably get quite soupy and could be miserable.

After about 11 kilometers and four hours of walking, you find the Donaldson Creek campsite. This campsite is in trees by a swampy spot where the creek widens. The creek is just beyond the camp and is the source of drinking water for this camp. There is a fire pit under some big coniferous trees where there are also flat spots for tents. From here it is 8kilometers to Chown Creek campsite.

After the campsite, you cross a little bridge over, presumably, Donaldson Creek and continue to walk through trees and marshy area towards the Smoky River. After about 40 minutes more, you hear the sound of rushing water. Shortly thereafter, you arrive at the Smoky and are treated to a high bridge over a deep narrow canyon. Here the river has carved a deep twisty channel in the smooth soft limestone rock and it crashes loudly against the rock. It is aqua green and is full of bubbles as it churns and boils. There are lots of logs tossed up and wedged in narrow places of the canyon above the water. They were probably deposited there during spring run-off. This canyon is similar to Maligne Canyon near the town of Jasper but it's not quite as large or deep.

ON the other side of the Smoky, the trail continues up the valley. Now you are heading up to Robson Pass on the Great Divide which you will reach tomorrow. Over the next hour, you hike through trees past the Smoky River Warden Cabin which is set back in the trees and very picturesque. You also pass a small lake which the work crew at Twintree Creek told us is called Smoky Lake. They said it is full of fish. From here it is not far to Chown Creek Campsite.

Chown Creek Campsite is before you come to Chown Creek and is marked by the usual green Parks Canada sign. The hiker campsite is to the left, down the creek and the horse campsite is to the right. There are two spots with two fireboxes. The second one is nicer so continue past the first firebox to the second. Here you camp on an old flood plain of Chown Creek which rushes by just beyond the camping area. This area has the potential to be muddy in wet weather because the tent area here is silty clay. If it seems to muddy, you might try camping at the first spot which is more in the trees and could also offer better protection from rain and wind.

The path to the privy starts in the woods just beyond the firebox at the second site. There are lots of good flat spots to set up tents here but you might wish to try snuggling up to the trees as much as you can. The wind can howl down from glacier-covered Mount Bess and whip your tent fly around keeping you up all night. Don't worry about Chown Creek jumping its bank and flooding your spot, we camped here after a long hot day and the glacier-fed creek did not rise much in spite of all the melting going on.

The highlight of this campsite, which is also one of my favourites, is Mount Bess. When you look up the creek, the view is dominated by a huge rocky beauty which wears a dress of glacial ice. The mountain behind and to the right of her is Mount Chown. I got a very pretty picture here of Mount Bess at sunrise when she was bathed in pinky light and surrounded by wisps of high pink clouds.

You also get a good view downstream across the Smoky River valley. The mountains there are lower but still lovely. This is the campsite I describe in the opening paragraph of the Guide where the stars were amazingly bright and numerous.

The creek, which is more of a river, is the now familiar greeny blue of glacial run-off. After it goes under the bridge, the creek splits into two main channels and spreads out across the flat valley bottom. There is a big gravel bar in the middle with small shrubs on it. There are nice open views from this campsite which is why I liked it so much. There was lots of firewood in the trees when we were here.

You'll need to get your sleep here because tomorrow is a very big day.

DAY 9: CHOWN TO ADOLPHOUS

Distance: 25 kilometers
Time on trail: 9.5 long hours

Start the day by crossing the bridge over Chown Creek. Then the trail starts to climb taking you up and over a shoulder. The trail is pretty good but rooty in places and it stays in the trees for much of the morning.

After the first hour of hiking, you come to Timothy Slide (and the horse campground). The slide area offers a chance to look across the valley and enjoy a view of the low mountains across the Smoky River and to see up the side of the mountain that you are hiking along. Wildflowers grow in the slide areas which look like avalanche chutes where snow would slide down the mountain during the winter. There are also a few small creeks to hop over along the trail here.

After another hour or so you pass the Wolverine Warden Cabin. Eventually, the trail drops down to follow the Smoky River more closely.

After nearly four hours of hiking, you come to a clearing where the mountain seems to be right in your face. Follow the trail around the base of the mountain and arrive at the Wolverine Campsite. This is a good place to have lunch. You have come 12 kilometers from Chown Creek and have another 15 kilometers to go to get to Adophous Campground where you will spend the night. At Wolverine Campground, beavers had dammed a creek which flooded out the campsite. Last I heard, Parks Canada had given in to the industrious tenacious beasts and decided to move the campsite [check for updates on the Parks Canada website]. There was a usable firebox at this site but nowhere dry to set up tents.

After another hour and a bit of walking (about 3.5 kilometers), you come to a creek crossing where the hiker bridge is high up on the hillside. You climb up to the bridge which has a ladder on one side. This is Gendama Creek. After this crossing, you drop back down to the Smoky River and the trail becomes a little muddy as it works its way through forest.

Shortly, you climb away from the river. The trail opens up as it traverses a massive landslide. The slide has cleared the trees away and allows views across the valley and up the hillside to the top of the mountain that you traverse. This is a welcome change from walking through closed forest. The only downside is that the rocks you walk on, which range from baseball size down to golf ball size or smaller, hurt your feet after a while. You will be glad of your stiff soles if you are wearing heavier hiking boots. This land slide continues for sometime and you pass fairly close to a little glacier that hangs onto the mountainside on your right. It hides in a fold in the rock where the sun can't reach it.

After the landslide, the trail drops back down to the river which spreads across the valley bottom. The trail improves and widens through open valley bottom then enters the forest once again. The trail is good and it is easier to make good time here. Look for a green Parks Canada sign that marks a trail junction. Here the path goes off to Moose Pass which is 8 kilometers away and Calumet Glacier which is 5 kilometers away. The sign also tells you that you have come 11 kilometers from Wolverine Campground and have 2 kilometers to go to Adophus. This total of 13 kilometers contradicts the sign at Wolverine Campground which tells you that it is 15 kilometers from Wolverine to Adolphus but such are the Parks Canada signs. These contradictory signs are an amusing part of the journey.

Towards the end of the day, you reach a more open area where the trail goes through willow bushes. Lovely views of glaciated mountains ahead announce that you are nearing the great divide. But first, you will reach your campground for the night. You will be relieved to know that you are now very close. A path to the left leads across a small creek to the warden cabin. You continue for another 500 m or so to Adolphus Campground, marked by the familiar green sign.

Adolphus campground is set in the trees on the side of a fairly steep hill. There are two camping areas at Adolphus, each with a firepit. The first one is the best because it has the most flat area for setting up tents. If you are stuck camping in the second area, look for nice flat sites up the hill from the firepit in the trees. These spots are also more sheltered. The privy is up the hill from the first campsite. It is an open air throne. The bear pole is in the second camping area not far from the fire pit. Water is from the small stream near the trail.

From here you are 26 kilometers to the Berg Lake Trailhead parking lot and civilization. When we were here, it was raining which is not unusual for the Mount Robson area. If you decide you want to stay at one of the campgrounds in Mount Robson provincial park and you didn't reserve a spot before you came here, you could stop at the warden cabin at Robson Pass which you will reach after about an hour and a half of walking. If the warden is at the cabin, you can ask about staying at one of the campgrounds but typically, these sites are booked solid all summer. The trip up to Berg Lake is one of the most popular backpacks in the Canadian Rockies. You should also be aware that there are no campfires allowed on the Berg Lake trail in any of the back country campsites.

Although 26 kilometers seems like another long day, it will be easier than you think. First, the trail drops hundreds of metres to the parking lot and the trail itself is like a super highway compared to what you have been used to traveling on. It even has stairs in some of the steeper areas. You should carefully consider taking your time on this area because there are many beautiful places like Berg Lake and the glacier that sits above it, feeding it with the occasional chunk of floating ice. There are many waterfalls, some you can see and feel up close and Kinney Lake is very charming and peaceful. However tempting the thought of a hot shower and restaurant food, this is not a good time to put your head down and stare at your boots through a forced march.

DAY 10: ADOLPHOUS to Trail Head

Distance: 26 kilometers
Time on trail: 9 hours (or longer if you linger for sight seeing)

The trail climbs a bit out of Adolphus as you head towards Adolphus Lake and Robson Pass. This is your last climbing of the trip and it doesn't last long. Adolphus Lake is small and very pretty. It is just off the left side of the trail. After a little more walking, you come to Robson Pass. Here a kiosk tells you that you are leaving Alberta and entering B.C. From here, all the water you see moves to the Pacific Ocean. You leave the Atlantic bound waters behind. This sub alpine area is open and flat. You have good views of the back of Mount Robson and the other glaciated peaks in its group. There are glaciers to your left and straight ahead. As you pass the kiosk and enter Mount Robson Provincial Park, you will be amazed at how the trail improves. It is wider and flatter. You will feel that you have already entered civilization and you will likely see more people during you first hour in this park than you have seen on your entire journey up to now.

Rearguard campground is to your right. As you progress, you also pass Berg Lake Campground. These campgrounds seem luxurious compared to what you have been used to. There are picnic tables, leveled off tent pads sprinkled with wood chips and even shelters with big wood stoves inside to supply heat and a dry area in case of rain.

After you pass the shelter at Berg Lake campground, you are back in the trees for a while. You will notice as you descend that you are in a rainier ecosystem. The plants are green and lush and water loving ferns grow at lower elevations. This increased rainfall is due to the size of Mount Robson. Clouds coming from the west bump up against Robson and drop their water on this valley. As a result, you are likely to get rain at least part of the day here.

Shortly, you emerge from the forest and see blue green Berg Lake spread before you. Berg Glacier tumbles down the side of Mount Robson into the lake. When we were here, there were no ice bergs floating on the lake, much to my disappointment. I've heard that if you stay at the Berg Lake campground, you can hear giant chunks of rock breaking off the glacier into the lake at night. Apparently, the sound is quite loud and awesome.

Berg Lake is the headwaters of the Robson River which you follow down the valley as it leaves the lake. Robson River wanders over gravel flats, this way and that. The trail follows and bridges are provided over all the little rivulets that wind across the gravel flats. The trail climbs a little onto the side of the hill opposite Robson and you are treated to terrific views down to the Robson River and back to Berg Lake. If you are lucky, the clouds around Mount Robson will break long enough for you to get a clear view of the back side of the mountain. From here, the trail starts to drop.

The next campsite is Emperor Falls. There are real outhouses here, picnic tables and tent pads. Drop down some more and you come to the side trail that leads to Emperor Falls. You can drop your pack in the bushes while you walk to the falls. Take your rain jacket if you aren't already wearing it. As you approach these awesome falls, you are soaked by the mist and you can get close enough to reach out and touch them - getting a very chilly shower in the process.

After Emperor Falls, you are in the Valley of a Thousand Falls and it almost lives up to its name - even during the dry month of August. Keep your head up to see the falls on the far side of the valley.

You see beautiful Kinney Lake from high above it long before you get to its shores. Once you drop down to the lake level, you cross the Robson River, which flows through Kinney Lake and come to the shore. Here the trail enters the forest where it goes up and down the mountain side like a roller coaster. I have heard that if the water in the lake is low enough, you can save your legs a bit by just walking along the edge of the lake. I haven't tried it but I think avoiding these steep little ups and downs would be worthwhile where possible.

The Kinney Lake campground is right on the shore of the lake. It is very beautiful with a big shelter right by the lake. It has tent pads, outhouses and picnic tables. This is the last campground before the parking lot. From here, the path is flatter as it follows more closely to the lake shore. At the end of Kinney Lake, the path joins the Robson River which is quite big here. Here the forest is now fully a rain forest complete with ferns and moss and cedars. Plaques along the trail explain how the weather is created here. Cross one more bridge (over the Robson River) and you are in the parking lot. Congratulations! You did it!

Contacts

Information/Permits/Maps
Friends of Jasper

Jasper National Park
Mount Robson Provincial Park

ThisAccommodations

Transportation

Brewster
Jasper Taxi

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Parks Canada Permits

Once you have your itinerary set up, you should call Parks Canada for the permits you'll need. There is a per night cost for back country camping.

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North Boundary Trail GPS Locations

North Boundary Trailhead Celestine

Shalebanks Cpgrnd

Seldom Inn Cpgrnd

Snake Indian Falls

Horseshoe Meadows Cpgrnd

Jctn - North Boundary & Rock Lake

Willow Creek Cpgrnd

Jctn - North Boundary & Mud Creek

Welbourne Cpgrnd

Blue Creek Cpgrnd

Three Slides Cpgrnd

Oatmeal Cpgrnd

Snake Indian Pass

Byng Cpgrnd

Twintree Cpgrnd

Smoky River Bridge

Donaldson Creek Cpgrnd

Chown Creek Cpgrnd

Between Chown Creek & Adolphus #1

Between Chown Creek & Adolphus #2

Detween Chown Creek & Adolphus #3

Between Chown Creek & Adolphus #4

Between Chown Creek & Adolphus #5

Adolphus Cpgrnd

Alberta - British Columbia border

Berg Lake Cpgrnd

Coleman Glacier

Emperor Falls Cpgrnd

Between Emperor & Trailhead

N 53 09 30.4 W 118 02 16.3

N 53 14 25.1 W 118 11 54.1

N 53 17 14.0 W 118 15 33.4

N 53 17 42.2 W 118 16 08.0

N 53 21 30.0 W 118 19 21.7

N 53 22 18.3 W 118 20 15.1

N 53 22 23.6 W 118 20 37.3

N 53 22 15.1 W 118 25 00.6

N 53 20 25.0 W 118 29 45.2

N 53 19 47.0 W 118 38 08.0 # - calculated from a map.

N 53 16 58.7 W 118 47 45.2

N 53 16 48.8 W 118 55 33.0

N 53 19 22.1 W 118 58 47.4

N 53 21 41.5 W 119 01 25.8

N 53 24 25.3 W 119 08 38.5

N 53 25 02.8 W 119 10 16.3

N 53 22 34.0 W 119 13 05.5

N 53 20 21.0 W 119 15 56.6

N 53 18 58.4 W 119 15 44.3

N 53 16 31.1 W 119 13 41.5

N 53 14 59.9 W 119 11 15.7

N 53 13 48.6 W 119 09 05.3

N 53 12 44.9 W 119 07 17.9

N 53 11 00.4 W 119 06 49.0

N 53 09 59.4 W 119 07 40.4

N 53 09 15.8 W 119 09 15.7

N 53 08 52.0 W 119 02 53.7

N 53 08 07.8 W 119 12 01.9

N 53 07 21.4 W 119 12 18.3

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Gear

Lighten Up, Eh!

Over the past year or so since we started planning this trip on the GDT, we have tossed around the idea of getting together a little more on the gear we take. The idea is that there are some items that we can share and we shouldn't pack more than we really need. For example, we don't each need to pack a stove. We can easily share two stoves among the five of us.

To minimize the gear we take and prevent useless redundancies within the team, I suggest that we categorize certain items as "group gear" and certain items as "team gear". Group gear would be split between two groups - group 1 is Al and Big H, group 2 is Ang, Duane and Kyle. For example, each group would carry one stove. We did this naturally last time because Duane and I live in Calgary and packed together. Al and Big H live near each other and packed together, sharing stove, pots and water treatment. Team gear is items that we only need one of such as a GPS and sat phone. Individual gear is what each person is responsible for packing and carrying for themselves.

We think the gear should be split up as follows:

Individual Gear
Food
Clothes including rain gear and pack covers
Sleeping bag and pad
Tent and/or tarp
Dish, spoon, cup
Hydration system and/or water bottles
Flashlight, TP, bug dope, mosquito net, sunscreen and personal stuff
Journals, cameras and film
Walking sticks

Group Gear
One stove per group
Fuel (we need to figure out how much to take)
One length of rope per group
One bear spray per group
One water treatment kit per group
One pot per group
One water bag or collapsible jug per group
One knife/multi-tool per group

Team Gear
Repair kit(s) - let's discuss what we need so we aren't bringing five full repair kits
First aid kit(s) - ditto the above
G.u.n. and related a.m.m.o.
Fire starter
GPS and Sat phone
Maps and compass
Folding saw

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Food

Food 24 freeze dried - oatmeal - dried fruit
Puddings - puddings - 2 Cliff bars
Gorp - hot chocolate - coffee
Juice crystals - herb butter - 2 zucchini
12 pietas - 12 bagels - block of cheese
beef jerky - land jagers -cup-o-soup
apples - bear deterrent - herb butter

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Food Value

Approximately 5000 calories are burnt during an 8-hour backpacking trip. This is based on packing 1/3 of your body weight. Anything above that is insane or/and very heavy. What is our daily intake? How much have we stored up in our system to sustain us for how long? Will we take a close look at our consumable products and do a calorific value? I think it will be a must for our 11-day trek from Saskatchewan River Crossing to Jasper.

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Accessories

Here is a list of products that may be deemed accessories for any backpacking trip. A detailed list can be produced for each product mentioned below.

Altimeters

Compass

Folding Saw

Insect repellent

Packs

Sunglasses

Bandanas

Comb

Fire starter

Lip balm

Poncho vs. rain gear

Survival blanket

Binoculars

"Chamois" towel

Fishing rod/gear

Lights/lamps/lanterns

Pouches

Umbrella

Barometers

Camp shoes/sandals

Gaiters

Mosquito net

Pedometer

Wash kits

Cameras

Collapsing water jug

GPS

Multi-tool Watch

Candles

Cell Phone

Gloves

Pack rain cover

Sun block

 

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About the reservation system

Campsite reservations are advisable for busy trails during the peak hiking months (check our stats re; Backcountry users) July and August. Busy trails include Skyline, Tonquin, Brazeau Loop and Maligne Lake and Pass areas.

You can make a reservation up to 3 months in advance by contacting the Townsite Office. The Jasper National Park Information Centre is located at 500 Connaught Drive. It is open seven days a week.

Tel : 780-852-6176
Trail Office: 780-852-6177
Email:pnj.jnp@pc.gc.ca

Hours:
April 5- June 13: 9:00 am - 5:00 pm
June 14 - Sept. 2: 8:30 am - 7:00 pm
Sept. 3 - Sept 30: 9:00 am - 6:00 pm
Oct 1 - Oct 31: 9:00 am - 5:00 pm
November 01 - March 31: 9:00 am - 4:00 pm

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Emergency Contacts:

Ambulance 911
RCMP (police) 911
Fire 911
Park Wardens - 24 hours (780) 852-6155
Seton General Hospital (780) 852-3344
Cottage Medical Clinic 505 Turret St. (780) 852-4885

Or reach them at their web site:
http://www.pc.gc.ca/pn-np/ab/jasper/index_E.asp

A non-refundable reservation fee applies plus a modified for additional changes to your itenerary. It may not be necessary for the NBT. A non-refundable reservation fee applies plus a modification fee for additional changes to your itinerary.

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Wilderness Pass

Purchase of a Wilderness Pass is mandatory for any overnight backcountry visit. It will specify the area/trail/ and campsites you are using and the number of people and tents in your group. You must pick up your pass from a park information center 24 hours prior to your departure. You will than receive trail conditions, closures and any information pertaining to the trail. Wilderness passes are available at all Park Information centers and at the Canadian Heritage Office in Calgary, Alberta (403-292-4401).

Jasper National Park
Box 10
Jasper, AB
Canada
T0E 1E0
Phone:
780-852-6176

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Transportation - Getting there: The east trailhead, the west trailhead, and Rock lake

East trailhead. Follow the Yellowhead to the Snaring River Campground junction, 9 km north of Jasper townsite. Exit east and follow this road, 6.3 km, past Snaring River Campground and across the bridge to where the paved road ends and the gravel road to Celestine Lake Road branches left. At km 13.5 you will reach a one way pull out parking area. Continue past the pull out area. You are now travelling on a one-way road. It will climb along the West Side of the valley. You will cross Vine Creek at km 15 and a gated branch road to Devone Flats at km 23.5. You will reach a locked access gate and parking area at km 27. This is 500 meters before the Snake Indian River Bridge.

At sign posted at the one-way pull out parking lot read as follows in 2002:

Inbound (north)

Outbound (south)

8:00 am to 9:00 am

9:30 am to 10:30 am

11:00 am to 12:00 noon

12:30 pm to 1:30 pm

2:00 pm to 3:00 pm

3:30 pm to 4:30 pm

5:00 pm to 6:00 pm

6:30 pm to 7:30 pm

8:00 pm to 9:00 pm

9:30 pm to 10:30 pm

11:00 pm to midnight

12:30 am to 1:30 am

2:00 am to 3:00 am

3:30 am to 4:30 am

5:00 am to 6:00 am

6:30 to 7:30 am

This information is also posted 1.3 km past Snaring River Campground.


West trailhead. Berg Lake Mount Robson.

From Jasper take the Yellowhead highway 16 west, 88-km to Mt Robson. Berg Lake trailhead can be reached by Greyhound bus from Prince George BC or Jasper. Turn north of the Highway at Mt. Robson and follow the road two kilometers to the large paved parking area. Here the trail starts/ends at the Robson River bridge crossing. You will find walk in campsites at either side of the highway at Mt. Robson should you miss your connection with your bussing schedule arriving at Berg Lake having hiked the trail from Celestine Lake. Mt. Robson is located in east, central British Columbia, just west of the British Columbia/Alberta border and Jasper National Park. Approximately 4 hours north of Kamloops, BC on Highway 5; 3 ½ hours east of Prince George, BC on highway 16; and 5 hours west of Edmonton Alberta on highway 16. There are commercial Airports in Prince George, Kamloops, and Edmonton. Rental vehicles are available at these centers. Mt. Robson Park is also served by Greyhound bus and VIA Rail

Rock Lake. From Jasper follow Yellowhead Highway 16 towards Hinton. 2 km before Hinton, turn left onto Highway 40 north to Grande Cache and Grand Prairie. Follow Highway 40 north, 40km to the Rock lake Junction and turn left and continue on the main road 27 km to Rock Lake Campground keeping right at major intersections. Stay right at the campground entrance. Keeping right at intersections as you climb around and above the north side of Rock Lake. At km 4.3 you will reach the end of the road with an access gate and the parking area for Willmore Wilderness Park boundary.

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Jasper Weather

The most predictable thing about the weather in Jasper is its unpredictable. Rain or snow can fall at any time of the year and freezing temperatures are possible even during the summer. The best way to prepare for a hike in Jasper National Park is to prepare for all conditions. Climate: With the onset of a warmer, drier climate following their last major advance, the retreating glaciers left exposed a barren and raw landscape. Soon plants and animals began to take advantage of these newly-exposed expanses, infiltrating the mountain valleys from ice-free areas. Some of these organisms invaded from regions to the south that had remained unglaciated. Other organisms arrived from their unglaciated mountain peak refuges, islands of rock that the glaciers had failed to cover.

The climate conditions of areas adjacent to melting glaciers were far from ideal for survival, but the constant glacial winds kept nearby valley bottoms mostly sno-free and the melting ice provided an abundance of water. Grasses and other hardy, cold-resistant species of vegetation soon took root in glacial silt and colonized the open spaces. Once this food source was established, large mammals such as bison, elk, deer, bighorn sheep and mountain goats gained a foothold.
As time passed, the climate continued to moderate. The glaciers dwindled and disappeared from all but the higher areas near the continental divide. As the annual cycle of growth and decay in the grasslands broke down the rock rubble and built up nutrient-rich soils, trees took root and spread through the valleys. During the warmest periods, between about 7000 and 3500 years ago, it is likely that grasslands and drier forests dominated, at least at lower altitudes. This combination of climate and habitat encouraged the growth of bison, elk and mountain sheep herds.
More recently, during the Little Ice Age (from about AD 1200 to 1850), the onset of cooler temperatures and higher snowfall initiated a minor advance of the glaciers from their mountain strongholds. These colder conditions pushed treelines lower and permitted cold-tolerant spruce and fir forest to dominate the mountain slopes, much as they do today. Caribou, moose and bison, all species adapted to travel in deeper snow, frequented much of the area, while elk and deer were confined to the grasslands still covering the bottom lands of the lower Athabasca Valley and the slopes of the drier front ranges.
During the past 150 years the climate has continued to fluctuate. Vegetation patterns have responded to its changes. Occasional severe winters, drought and fire have played their part in shaping the ecology of the mountain regions. Numbers of animals, not to mention numbers of humans, have all been affected by the prevailing climate.
Although the Pacific Ocean lies several mountain ranges to the west, ocean winds influence much of Jasper's weather and contribute to the forces of change in the mountains. The winds rush up and over the main ranges. Moisture-laden clouds dump meters of snow and water in highlands such as the Columbia Icefield. Drier winds flow northeast down the Athabaska Valley, lifting sand and silt and sweeping slopes bare in their wake.
When the dominant west wind falters, Arctic fronts sweep in from the north and east and the temperature plummets. The park's northerly location and distance from the ocean make the climate of Jasper National Park 'continental', with long, cold winters and, warm summers.
The weather in Jasper National Park is ever changing and always unpredictable. Visitors should be prepared for the icy winds that can blow off a glacier in mid-summer, and for the Chinooks that can warm a January day to above freezing.
Spring comes to the valley bottoms in mid-April and reaches the high country by mid-June. Summer days are long, but the summer season is short. July is the warmest month with a mean daily temperature of 22.5 degrees Celsius. September and October bring fall colors , clear skies and cooler temperatures. The long winter season is varied with periods of cold stormy weather that can quickly change to a mild Chinook wind. January is the coldest month with a mean maximum temperature of -9.4 degrees Celsius.
In mountainous terrain, a number of factors contribute to climate and weather patterns and create a variety of microclimates. These factors include elevation, latitude, prevailing winds, alignment of valleys, shading from mountains, and winds from the glaciers.
Altitude has a great impact on the local climate; the higher the elevation, the cooler the temperature. Generally, a loss of 1.7 degrees Celsius can be expected with every 300 meters of elevation gained.
The winds from the southwest also have a significant influence on local weather. Although the Pacific Ocean lies several mountain ranges away, winds from the sea bring air and moisture to the mountains. Most of the moisture is dropped from these systems before they reach the eastern slopes of the Rockies.

Weather Record

Jasper Townsite 150 year record

Month

Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May

Jun

Jul

Aug

Sep

Oct

Nov

Dec

Mean Daily

-7.8

-0.6

3.2

9.6

15.6

19.2

22.5

21.4

16.4

10.3

0.7

-4.9

Max Temp

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Mean Daily

-17.8

-12.2

-8.6

-2.9

1.7

5.6

7.6

7.0

3.2

-1.0

-8.5

-13.6

Min Temp

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Mean
Snowfall in
Centimeters

38.1

21.7

14.7

10.9

3.1

trace

----

0.1

1.1

5.4

24.6

32.7

Mean
Rainfall in
Centimeters

2.4

2.2

3.2

12.7

30.3

54.8

49.7

48.4

36.8

24.2

8.6

5.4

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Transportation

Trailheads can be difficult to get to without a vehicle. There isn't much public transportation to the outlying park trailheads. Thompson Tours (tomtour@telusplanet.net) will supply transportation to the NBT trailheads. Their charge for one way to Berg Lake Trailhead (Mt. Robson, BC) based on a minimum of two passengers is $30.00 CDN one way. They will pick up as well. The charge for Celestine Trailhead, again, is $30.00CDN one way per person based on a minimum of two passengers. Rock Lake is approximately a two hour drive from Jasper townsite and the charge per passenger is $80.00 CDN one way. If you wish to make a booking a few weeks prior to your trip, they will require a VISA card number to hold the reservation. A confirmation phone call is required 24 hours before departure. Greyhound Bus.

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Campsites

1. Celestine Lake

2. Shallebanks

3. Seldom Inn

4. Horseshoe

5. Willow Creek

6. Welbourne

7. Blue Creek

8. Three Slides

9. Oatmeal

10. Byng

11. Twintree

12. Donaldson

13. Chown Creek

14. Wolverine

15. Adolphus

16. Robson Pass

17. Rearguard

18. Berg lake

19. Marmot

20. Emperor falls

21. Whitehorn

22. Kinney lake

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Maps

Maps list - to come soon.

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Accomodations

Accomodations - to come soon.